Landslides, Delays, and a Night with the Indian Army: A Spiti Valley Trip Like No Other

There’s something about Spiti that calls out to you long before you get there.

Maybe it’s the silence of the valleys, the way the wind howls through narrow gorges, or the endless brown and white of the mountains that seem to go on forever. No matter how many times I return, the feeling is always the same; humbling, grounding, and deeply emotional.

But before I get to what happened on this Spiti valley trip, let me tell you how I even got here.

Travel wasn’t always part of the plan. I come from a commerce background, did my B.Com, cleared my CA Inter, and had a pretty “straight” path laid out. But somewhere along the way, I stumbled into travel—quite literally. While doing my Master’s in Tourism, I started taking weekend trips just to break the monotony. I’d be in class during the week, and then vanish into the mountains for two days before Monday rolled back around.

That rhythm started shaping me. I loved it more than I expected. During COVID, I joined a company that was setting up workcation properties across Himachal before “work from mountains” became a trend. It opened my eyes to just how much there was to explore and how much I didn’t know about this industry. Eventually, I knew I wanted to work with a team doing premium, curated road trips, and that’s how Adventures Overland happened. This drive through Spiti was my second trip with AO. And I had no idea it would become the kind of story you never forget.

Frequent landslides, narrow mountain roads and sudden weather changes are realities travellers must account for when undertaking a Spiti Valley drive.

Setting off on our Spiti Valley Road Trip

We were leading one of our Adventures Overland convoys through the high Himalayas; 14 cars winding their way through Himachal’s dramatic landscapes, heading towards Tabo. There were 37 travellers with us, including a dedicated crew of 5. This Spiti Valley road trip had already given us moments we would carry forever; crossing mountain routes, watching the play of light and shadow on ridges, stopping for chai in villages where time seemed to stand still.

The day started like any other on a mountain drive; early, with the air still crisp, jackets zipped up, and the roads slowly waking up to the sun. We were driving from Sangla to Tabo, a long but beautiful stretch that takes you deeper into Spiti’s heart. The excitement in the convoy radios was unmistakable. We were only an hour away from Tabo when everything suddenly changed.

We reached Chango village, and that’s where we first heard the news. A landslide had occurred just up the road. Some vehicles had gotten trapped. There were reports of injuries.

And then came the update. The roads were closed because of the landslide in Spiti. For how long? Nobody knew.

But here’s one of the most serendipitous things that happened that day. We were running 40 minutes behind schedule because one of the cars in our convoy had a mechanical issue. We had all paused to fix it, waiting together like convoys do. At the time, it felt like a small inconvenience. In hindsight, that delay might have saved our lives.

The landslide that blocked the road had happened just ahead; right around the time we were originally supposed to pass through. If we had been on time, we would’ve been in the middle of it. That thought still gives me chills. And even if we, as travelers, were stranded because of the landslide, at least we were all safe and sound.

Recommended Watch: Spiti Cinematic Travel Film

The landslide in Spiti Valley

You don’t really prepare for moments like this. One minute, you’re enjoying the ride through one of the most remote places in India. Next, you’re stranded; with no place to stay. And not just our group; hundreds of travellers had been affected. Most accommodations nearby were already full. It was late in the afternoon, and we had no idea where we’d be sleeping that night.

There’s something incredibly quiet about the moment you realise you have no control. The mountains were calm, but inside, I felt a little storm brewing. I could see it on others’ faces too; tired from the long drive, unsure about the next steps, and the sun slowly dipping behind the cliffs.

We did what we thought best and drove to the nearest checkpost at Sumdo and explained our situation. The officers there listened carefully, and though they were dealing with multiple stranded travellers, they showed patience and understanding. That’s when we remembered Major Varun from the Dogra Regiment. We had been in touch with him for the Spiti Marathon earlier this year, and decided to reach out, hoping he might be able to guide us.

What happened next still gives me goosebumps.

Within five minutes, Major Varun had connected us to Lt. Paul, Lt. Rubesh, and Colonel Lalit Palariya. He didn’t just offer advice. He offered help. Real help. They understood the urgency. And just like that, they told us they’d take us in.

Hospitality at the Army Base in Sumdo

A jawan was sent to meet us and lead our convoy to the base at Sumdo. And when we reached there, it felt like the mountains had opened their arms and welcomed us. Despite our group’s size, the regiment made space for everyone. They served us warm meals, chai, and snacks. There was no hesitation. Honestly, it felt like they somehow knew we were coming because of how well-prepared they were. Except of course, they couldn’t have known. They are just that brilliant. It wasn’t just the food or the beds, it was the way they made us feel. Safe. Looked after. At home.

For the first time since we got the news, I breathed a sigh of relief. We were in the hands of the most capable and fierce people we would ever meet. We were in the hands of the jawans of the Indian Army.

That night, as we all settled into the army base under the cold Spitian sky, I sat with a hot cup of tea in my hands and felt a lump in my throat. It wasn’t just relief; it was gratitude. In a place where there was nothing, someone had shown up for us. Without being asked twice.

The officers kept us updated about the news and then made us go to bed, telling us not to worry. Telling us that the next dawn will bring good news. And, they were right.

The next morning, the BRO had cleared the road. The news came in early, and soon our cars were packed, engines started, and the convoy was ready to move again. But before we left, the officers met us once more; with smiles, with calm, and with a final message: “If you run into any trouble again, just reach out. We’ll be here.”

And just like that, we were back on the road. But I carried something new with me from that night.

Suggested Read: An Ode to Spiti: Where every traveler becomes a poet

This Spiti Valley trip didn’t go as planned and I’m grateful for that

In travel, we often speak of nature, adventure, and discovery. But what stays with you, long after the roads end, are the people. The ones who help without being asked. The ones who make space for strangers. The ones who turn a moment of crisis into a memory of compassion.

This was one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences—not just for me, but for every single traveller in that convoy. You could see it on their faces that night, and hear it in their voices the next morning. In hindsight, what could have been a major roadblock turned into something none of us will ever forget. I know I won’t.

After all, how many people can say they spent the night as guests inside an army base?

These kinds of moments don’t happen every day. But when you’re on the road, especially in places like Spiti, there’s always the possibility.

Sometimes the mountains teach you things you didn’t even know you needed to learn.

That night, they taught me humility. And they showed me just how powerful kindness can be.

A Heartfelt Thanks to the Indian Army

To the Dogra Scouts, to every officer and jawan who opened their doors to us when we needed it most, thank you. Your warmth, your readiness, and your humanity reminded us of what it truly means to serve. You may be posted in the remotest corners of the country, but your impact reaches far beyond.

As told to Adventures Overland by Miftah Irshad

Recommended read: How Spiti made me fall in love, again!